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News & Notes
WESTERN
BREACH APPROACH RE-OPENS, BUT CONSIDERED UNSAFE
January
8, 2008
The
Western Breach approach to summit re-opened on December 1, 2007
after being closed since January 2, 2006, following the accident
which claimed the lives of three American climbers. Many operators,
including Ultimate Kilimanjaro, are not accepting clients intending
to use the Western Breach, as they believe that the dangers of
the approach subjects climbers to an unreasonable degree of risk.
John
Rees-Evans of Team Kilimanjaro, who was part of the Kilimanjaro
Safety Reconnaissance Patrol (report below) that investigated
the causes of the Western Breach accident along with members from
Zara Tours and African Environment, does not recommend the Western
Breach as a safe ascent route. He created www.westernbreach.co.uk
to "provide an opportunity for prospective Kilimanjaro climbers
to assess for themselves whether the obvious risks associated
with the route are acceptable."
____________
ULTIMATE
KILIMANJARO QUOTED IN WASHINGTON POST!
September
28, 2007
Beyond
the Grand Canyon: Five More Active Adventures
Climbing
Mount Kilimanjaro. Ascending this 19,340-foot mountain doesn't
involve ropes, snap links and other accouterments of the hard-core
mountain climb. Essentially the Tanzanian ascent is a long, thin-aired
walk -- it can easily take you a week or more -- requiring strong
legs and loads of stamina. The best preparation for hiking mountains
is to ... well, hike a mountain, according to the Web site UltimateKilimanjaro.com
(www.ultimatekilimanjaro.com). Train in the hiking boots and day
pack you plan to use on the trip. Long-distance walking can build
stamina. And as with the Inca Trail, you must prepare for the
thin air and sickness it could provoke.
____________
KILIMANJARO
SAFETY PATROL RECONNAISSANCE EXPEDITION
January 25-27, 2006
An
investigation to determine the cause of the Western Breach accident
of 4th January 2006 and to offer recommendations for the way forward
for this route.
1.
Description of Western Breach
Location of Arrow Glacier Camp: 03°04.580' S, 037°20.357'
E. Altitude: 4871m
Location of point of entry onto Crater: 03°04.396' S, 037°21.105'
E. Altitude: 5726m
Mean gradient of slope: 38.0°
Mean gradient of route: 26.0°
Linear distance from Arrow to Crater: 1.39km
Route distance from Arrow to Crater: 1.95km
The
present route ascending the Western Breach can be said to consist
of 7 phases:
1) Route zigzags on scree slope from Arrow Camp at 4871m,
2) attains red rock band at 5090m,
3) emerges from top of red rock band at 5205m where attains scree
slope 230 metres beneath right arms of r-shaped glacier,
4) trail moves diagonally left on scree before switching right
to cross tributary (2nd water point, sometimes frozen) at 5308m
at halfway point en route to crater lip,
5) trail continues diagonally right to top of 'rock train' where
attains rock spur until base of crater wall
6) ascends rock tower with series of switchbacks and rock steps
before emerging onto narrow scree slope,
7) route moves diagonally right across scree band to emerge through
crater wall onto crater at 5726m. 'O' indicates location of Western
Breach on Kibo's south west face
2.
Causes of the Accident
Residual glacial deposit assumed to have been formed over many
years at intersection between left and right arms of r-shaped
glacier (see figure 5). Part of this deposit collapsed, estimated
by group at 39 tonnes, sliding 150 metres down the slope, reaching
a group estimated speed of 39 metres per second at the point where
the climbers were struck.
Cause
of dislodgement: melting of ice in ice-scree composite bonding
residual glacial deposit combined with strong downhill winds measured
at 177 km/h on morning of accident³. Climbers failed to respond
to threat because of following factors:
- estimated only 4-5 seconds* before sound emanating from rocks
gathering speed reached climbers;
- strong winds deflecting sound;
- poor visibility with snowfall.
¹
the team examined a conspicuous cavity at the accident source
site from where the recent fallen rocks were believed to have
been dislodged that caused this accident. Based on the apparent
concentration of remaining rocks adjoining this area, members
estimated the number of 7 tonne truck loads required to re-fill
this cavity. An average was taken and the figure of 39 tonnes
arrived at.
²
based on compared experiences of three members of the team who
themselves had been exposed to rockfall.
³
measured by Zara Guide George Lyimo during ascent of Western Breach
Route on morning of accident, using Austrian manufactured "Ciclo"
wind speed gauge wrist unit, assumed error of 5%. Lyimo quit camp
approximately 3 hours before the deceased.
*mean
velocity = distance / time, thus (39 - 0)/2 = 150 / t, thus t
= 7.7 seconds. Subtract from this time taken for sound to reach
climbers, 0.5 seconds, (speed of sound = 300 m/s), thus time between
sound and rock reaching climbers = 7.7 - 0.5 = 7.2 seconds.
It
is assumed that while rock begins to become dislodged a significant
volume of sound is not emitted within the first 2-3 seconds, before
the originating rocks begin to impact other rocks and build speed.
3.
Current Status of Route
The route is judged currently to be not safe with special concern
over two risk zones: Risk Zone A (yellow, below): residual glacial
deposit at intersection of right and left arms of r-shaped glacier
resulting in a death risk from rock fall zone from 5180m to 5315m.
Risk
Zone B (red, below): crater wall and rock tower subsidence at
5440m to 5780m resulting in a death risk from rock fall zone from
5280m to 5480m. The remainder of the route is judged to be subject
to no specific identifiable imminent threats.
4.
Recommendations
1) Our principal recommendation is to divert the route from near
the top of the red rock band to the base of the prominent rock
feature known as the 'Stone Train'. The route should proceed to
handrail up the left hand edge of the Stone Train to attain the
rock spur adjoining the base of the crater wall at approximately
5400m.
2)
A signboard should be erected at Arrow Glacier camp stating the
following, or similar: "The Western Breach ascent route is
subject to considerable objective risk, primarily from rock fall.
Climbers should be aware that while it is not possible to avoid
all risk, in order to minimize exposure to rock fall, ascents
should depart from Arrow Glacier camp no later than 5:30 am."
3)
The route should be clearly signposted with prohibitions not to
proceed beyond the red rock band. The new diversion should be
clearly marked with warning sign advising climbers that they are
entering a rock fall risk zone and requesting that they proceed
swiftly across the demarcated zone to the base of the Stone Train.
The Stone Train diversion route should be well prepared with steps
cut to assist swift passage across tributary at base of risk zone
B. The team believes that this measure will reduce the time spent
in a rock fall risk zone from some 55 minutes to 5 minutes.
4)
Consultation with, and commissioning of studies by, further specialists
(seismologists, glaciologists, geologists, meteorologists, etc)
to assess the long term future risks associated with climate change
and Kilimanjaro's altering geology and glaciology.
5)
The present team to form the basis of a future safety patrol team
tasked with visiting the mountain on a monthly or bi-monthly basis
to survey and identify possible future risk areas in the light
of the rapidly changing climatic situation on Kilimanjaro. The
team believes the following areas to merit close and regular inspection:
1) Western Breach
2) Barranco Breach Wall
3) Area beneath the Kersten and Decken Glaciers
4) South East Valley beneath Stella Point
5) Final re-entrant before attaining Barafu Rib on the Machame
Route
6) Area between Hans Meyer Cave and Gilman's Point
(On 29th January the team learned that precisely this area had
suffered rock fall only 3 days prior).
7) Lava Tower
It
would be hoped that this team would be instrumental in averting
future disasters by offering appropriate recommendations to contain
or evade perceived threats throughout Mount Kilimanjaro.
7)
A survey of visitors to Kilimanjaro National Park should be conducted
in order to ascertain the general feeling of the tourist community
towards the prospects of:
a) closure of the Western Breach ascent route
b) continuing to conduct ascents via the Western Breach despite
proven risks of ongoing possible rock fall, albeit following the
implementation of a new route section that will significantly
reduce exposure to these hazards
c) continuing the use of the other two assault routes on the mountain,
via Barafu and Kibo Huts, which are also believed to be becoming
more risk prone as rock bonding agents throughout the mountain
lose integrity with perceived rising temperatures and a reduction
in precipitation generally.
Appendix
A
Mathematically, the maximum speed obtainable by a rock falling
in unresisted freefall from the source site (130 verticalmetres
above point of impact) would be 113 mph by the time it reached
the casualties:
1): (V2 - V1) / t = a = 9.81 m/s/s, thus, 9.81t = V2 - V1
2): (V2 - V1) / 2 = d / t, thus, (V2 - V1) / 2 = 130 / t, thus,
260 = t(V2 - V1), and V2 - V1 = 9.81t, thus, 260 = t(9.81t), thus,
9.81t² = 260, thus, t = (260 / 9.81) Thus, t = 5.15 seconds,
thus max. mean velocity = 130 / 5.15 = 25.24 m/s, thus max final
velocity (in freefall) = 2 x 25.24 = 50.5 m/s = 182 km/h = 113
mph.
Appendix
B
The estimate of 39 metres per second (140.4 km/h or 87.2 mph)
is based on the compared experiences of three team members (Elias
Msemo, George Lyimo and John Rees-Evans) who themselves had been
exposed to rock fall on previous occasions and who for the purpose
of this report each independently estimated the speed at which
rock fall that they had witnessed had passed them on similarly
angled slopes to that beneath the r-shaped glacier from the base
of which the recent rock fall was dislodged. An average of these
three estimates was taken. This method is not claimed to be systematic
or accurate however we believe it to be a reliable approximation.
The team is aware that an eyewitness survivor estimated the falling
rock to be travelling at "150 mph" but as this rock
originated only 150m above the accident site the accelerative
force acting on this rock would be required to be in excess of
the resultant gravitational force acting upon an unresisted rock
in freefall:
150
mph = 67.1 m/s time required for unresisted projectile in freefall
to obtain this speed = = 6.8 seconds
With the accident being sited at a max. elevation of 5280m (evidence
was recovered from 5245m) the rock fall would have been required
to have originated at 5736m which is above the level of the crater
wall at this point:
final
velocity = thus, 67.1 = therefore x = 456.3 metres, added to 5280
= 5736 metres elevation
Further, note that these calculations describe a rock in freefall
which we would judge to be considerably faster than that of a
rock rolling down a 30 - 40 degree slope.
The
Team:
Imani Kikoti Park Warden, KINAPA Acting as Chairman
Joseph Paul Nchereri Athlete, Team Kilimanjaro Acting as Secretary
Ambrose Mlay Rescue Ranger, KINAPA Member
George Lyimo Guide, Zara Tours Member
Elias Msemo Guide, African Environment Member
John Rees-Evans Director, Team Kilimanjaro Member
Signed:
Imani Kikoti, Chairman Joseph Paul Nchereri, Secretary
Left to right: Ambrose Mlay, Elias Msemo, George Lyimo, John Rees-Evans,
Imani Kikoti.
____________
ROCK
SLIDE ON MOUNT KILIMANJARO KILLS THREE AMERICAN CLIMBERS
January
5, 2006
By:
Associated Press
MOUNT
KILIMANJARO NATIONAL PARK, Tanzania -- The climbers were asleep
in their tents, hoping to get a few hours rest before a pre-dawn
ascent of Africa's highest peak, when the boulders rained down.
Three Americans were killed and two others seriously injured.
The
Americans were among several dozen foreign climbers from various
tour groups camped near Arrow glacier on Kilimanjaro's difficult
Western Breach when the rock slide occurred Wednesday.
The
dead were identified as Kristian Ferguson, 27, of Longmont, Colo.;
Mary Lou Sammis, 58, of Huntington, N.Y., and Betty Orrik Sapp,
63, of Melrose, Mass.
The
climbing trip was a lifelong dream of Sapp and her husband, William
W. Sapp Jr., both physicists, said neighbor Jeannine Holden. The
husband survived.
"They
were so thrilled. They were looking forward to bringing us back
pictures," Holden said.
Ferguson,
a satellite engineer at Ball Aerospace & Technologies Corp.
in Boulder, Colo., had been hiking with his wife and others from
the Colorado Mountain Club, friends and club officials said.
"Kris
had a lucky star, up until the day before yesterday," said
his father, Paul Ferguson, of Redmond, Wash. "He was always
energetic and brilliant at whatever he tried. He was able to deal
with the most technical problems and yet he was the most cerebral
type of person when it came to things like psychology and philosophy
and poetry."
"He
was charmed and charming," said his mother, Karrie.
Ferguson
said Jodi Coochise, his daughter-in-law, told him the couple was
in their tents when the rock slide occurred.
Debbie
Ramsey, a family friend answering the telephone at the Sammis
home, said Sammis was in Tanzania with her husband, Scott, and
three adult children.
"It
was a dream come true for them," Ramsey said of the family's
trip.
Mary
Sammis "loved to hike and was always going on hiking trips
with friends," Ramsey said. "Mary was a very upbeat,
wonderful, great friend."
The
injured Americans were flown to Nairobi, Kenya, for treatment,
said James Wakibara, acting spokesman for Mount Kilimanjaro National
Park.
Several
Tanzanian guides also were initially reported killed, but regional
police commander Mohamed Chico said Thursday that no Tanzanians
had been found among the dead.
Of
the world's top peaks, Kilimanjaro is among the easiest to scale
-- though, as Wednesday's slide demonstrated, it can be deadly.
The
climbers set out Saturday to climb the Umbwe route, the most difficult
on Mount Kilimanjaro, which at 19,443 feet is the highest freestanding
mountain in the world. Even so, the route is only a very difficult
hike, not requiring safety ropes or special equipment.
The
group had taken several days to reach the camp at Arrow glacier,
the normal resting point at 15,800 feet, before summiting Uhuru
peak along the Umbwe route. Climbers usually arrive before nightfall
and sleep until they begin the ascent at around 2 a.m. to reach
the summit at dawn.
Above
the camp site is a steep slope of loose gravel and above that
is the crater wall of a now extinct volcano. While the climbers
were sleeping, boulders and rocks broke off the wall and fell
on the camp site, said Thomas Kimaro, owner of Alpine Tours.
Wakibara
said a rescue team was immediately sent up the mountain along
with every available porter to help bring down the dead and injured.
By Thursday morning, more than 50 foreign climbers had been brought
down, some with minor injuries, and the Umbwe route was clear,
he said.
More
than 20,000 tourists attempt to climb the mountain every year.
About 10 people die each year during the climb, usually from high
altitude sickness.
But
rock slides are rare, Wakibara said.
"The
possible explanation I hear on this could be earth movement or
vibration," he said. "It has never happened like this
in the past."
Chico
said experts were on the mountain Thursday trying to determine
what caused the slide. There had been a change in the weather
at the peak before the rock fall, officials said, without elaborating
on how that could have contributed to the accident.
Warmer
temperatures over the last decade have melted some of Mount Kilimanjaro's
glaciers, causing them to retreat, which has loosened rocks once
held in place by the ice.
Climbers
on other routes were allowed to continue on Thursday, Wakibara
said.
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