Where is Aconcagua Located?
Aconcagua is located in the Andes Mountains of Argentina, near the border with Chile. It sits within Aconcagua Provincial Park in Mendoza Province. The nearest major city is Mendoza, about 70 miles (113 km) southeast of the mountain.
How Tall is Aconcagua?
Aconcagua stands at 22,838 feet (6,961 m), making it the highest mountain in South America. It is also the tallest mountain outside of Asia and the second most prominent and isolated peak in the world after Mount Everest.
How Was it Formed?
Aconcagua formed as part of the Andes through tectonic uplift. The Nazca Plate is subducting beneath the South American Plate, pushing the Andes upward over millions of years. Aconcagua is not volcanic. It is a folded mountain composed of sedimentary and metamorphic rock.
What Does the Name Mean?
The name Aconcagua likely derives from the Quechua phrase “Ackon Cahuak,” which is interpreted as “Sentinel of Stone.” Other theories suggest an Aymara origin meaning “snowy sentinel.” The phrase paints Aconcagua as a guardian of the Andes.
How Long Does it Take to Climb?
Climbing Aconcagua usually takes 14 to 20 days depending on the route, weather, and acclimatization. The most common route is the Normal Route, a non-technical path that takes roughly 18 days round trip, including rest and acclimatization days.
How Hard is it to Climb Aconcagua?
While Aconcagua is not technically difficult by its Normal Route, the mountain is physically demanding. The main challenge is altitude. The air at the summit holds just 40% of the oxygen available at sea level. This causes fatigue, headaches, and altitude sickness in unprepared climbers.
The climb involves long days carrying loads between camps, with summit day lasting 10 to 14 hours. You need to be able to ascend 3,500 feet on successive days carrying 40 to 50 lbs (18 to 23 kgs) of gear. High winds, subzero temperatures, and snowstorms are common above 18,000 feet (5,486 m). Snow and scree slopes can be difficult to ascend. No ropes or technical climbing gear are needed on the Normal Route, but crampons and ice axes may be required depending on snow conditions.
More advanced routes like the Polish Glacier Route require technical mountaineering skills, including ice climbing and route finding in glaciated terrain.
What is the Success Rate on Aconcagua?
Success rates vary by year but are generally around 30% to 40%. Most failures are due to altitude sickness, exhaustion, or weather-related delays. Teams that acclimatize properly and move conservatively tend to perform better.
Can Beginners Climb Aconcagua?
Aconcagua is often promoted as a beginner’s high mountain, but it is not ideal for total novices. Given its duration, beginners may find it hard to spend that much time outside without modern comforts, exposed to cold, wind, and isolation.
Multi-day trekking experience and good physical conditioning are essential. Climbers should have prior experience at high altitude, ideally over 15,000 feet (4,572 m). Those without previous exposure to altitude are at serious risk for AMS (acute mountain sickness).
Who Was the First Person to Climb Aconcagua?
The first recorded ascent of Aconcagua was made in 1897 by Swiss mountaineer Matthias Zurbriggen. He reached the summit via the Normal Route during a British expedition led by Edward FitzGerald.
How Many People Climb Aconcagua Per Year?
Roughly 3,500 to 4,000 climbers attempt Aconcagua each year. The majority attempt the Normal Route, though a smaller number pursue the Polish Traverse or technical routes like the Polish Glacier.
How Do You Train to Climb Aconcagua?
Training should emphasize hiking endurance, accompanied by leg strengthening exercise and high-altitude exposure. Multi-hour hikes with a weighted pack, stair climbs, and long cardio sessions are standard.
Experience with multi-day camping, load carrying, and extreme weather conditions is valuable. Strengthening the cardiovascular system and preparing mentally for harsh conditions are also important to success. Most people will need to train for at least 4-6 months to be ready.
What is the Best Time to Climb Aconcagua?
The climbing season runs from mid-November to early March. The best weather is typically in December and January. Days are longer and temperatures slightly warmer, though summit temperatures still fall below 0°F (-18°C), with wind chills much lower.
Earlier in the season, snow is more abundant but weather tends to be more stable. In February and March, conditions become windier and less predictable.
From April to early-November, Aconcagua is out of season for climbing. Conditions are harsh and unstable. Temperatures on the summit can fall below -20°F (-29°C), with wind chills reaching -50°F (-45°C) or worse. Storms are more violent and prolonged. High avalanche risk, deep snow, and extreme cold make climbing nearly impossible.
What are the Different Climate Zones on the Mountain?
Aconcagua features several climate zones due to its height and location.
Base (Below 10,000 feet): Dry and desert-like with sparse vegetation. Days are warm, nights are cool.
Mid-Mountain (10,000 to 18,000 feet): Alpine desert zone. Vegetation disappears. Temperature drops sharply, especially at night. Wind increases.
High Mountain (Above 18,000 feet): Arctic conditions. Snow and ice dominate. Temperatures are consistently below freezing. Oxygen levels are low. Weather is highly variable and can change rapidly.
How Many Climbing Routes Are on Aconcagua?
There are several established routes on Aconcagua. The three most common are:
Normal Route: The least technical and most popular. Starts at Horcones Valley. Camps are established at Confluencia, Plaza de Mulas (base camp), and three high camps. No rope work is needed. The final push to the summit involves a steep scree slope and switchbacks.
Polish Traverse Route: Starts from the Vacas Valley and ascends through Plaza Argentina. It is longer and requires more acclimatization but has fewer crowds. It meets the Normal Route high on the mountain.
Polish Glacier Route: A technical alpine climb. Requires ice axes, crampons, ropes, and protective equipment. Involves steep glacier travel and is reserved for experienced climbers.
Other technical routes exist on the south face and alternate glacier routes, but these are rarely attempted.
What is Summit Day Like on the Normal Route?
Summit day starts around 4 or 5 AM from Camp Colera or Camp Berlin at about 19,600 feet (5,974 meters). The route ascends gradually through switchbacks to Independencia Hut, the highest shelter on the mountain. The path then follows a long traverse called the “traverse of the wind,” notorious for high gusts.
Climbers ascend the Canaleta, a steep, loose scree gully, followed by a narrow summit ridge. The round trip typically takes 10 to 14 hours. Most climbers descend back to high camp the same day.
How Much Does it Cost to Climb Aconcagua?
Costs vary from $4,000 to $7,000 depending on the route, level of support, and guide service. Independent climbers can pay less, but must arrange permits, transport, and logistics themselves.
Permit fees alone range from $600 to $1,100 depending on nationality and route. Additional costs include gear, mule support, food, and hotel stays in Mendoza.
How Many People Have Died on Aconcagua?
Over 100 climbers have died on Aconcagua since records began. Common causes include altitude sickness, exposure, exhaustion, and heart failure. While not technical, the altitude and weather make the mountain dangerous for the unprepared.
What Animals Live on Aconcagua?
The lower valleys near the base of the mountain host wildlife such as guanacos, foxes, and hares. Condors are frequently seen circling the cliffs. Insects, birds, and small reptiles live at lower altitudes. Life is sparse above 13,000 feet (3,962 meters) due to the dry, cold climate.
How Does Aconcagua Compare to Kilimanjaro?
Aconcagua is significantly more demanding than Kilimanjaro. Kilimanjaro is considered a guided trek. Aconcagua is a true expedition.
First, Aconcagua is taller, reaching 22,838 feet (6,961 meters), while Kilimanjaro stands at 19,341 feet (5,895 meters). The added elevation increases the risk and severity of altitude-related illness.
Second, Aconcagua takes much longer. Kilimanjaro routes typically last 5 to 9 days. Aconcagua expeditions typically require 18 to 20 days. That’s nearly three weeks spent above 10,000 feet (3,048 meters), with extended exposure above 16,000 feet (4,877 meters). The cumulative stress on the body is far greater.
Third, climbers carry much heavier loads on Aconcagua. On Kilimanjaro, porters carry most of the gear while climbers carry only a small daypack. On Aconcagua, gear must be carried by the climber or moved using mules only to base camp. Above that, climbers carry packs of 40 to 50 pounds (18 to 23 kgs), often with multiple load carries between camps.
Fourth, the weather is harsher on Aconcagua. Kilimanjaro’s weather is relatively mild. Aconcagua is colder, windier, and more exposed. Temperatures regularly fall below zero. Storms can last for days. Wind chill becomes a major factor above high camp.
Both mountains have non-technical routes. But the level of self-sufficiency required on Aconcagua is far greater.
