Chantal Mauduit was a French mountaineer who climbed many of the world’s highest peaks without supplemental oxygen. She was known for her bold solo ascents and her tragic death on Dhaulagiri in 1998. This article explores who she was, what made her unique, and the circumstances of her death.

Early Life

Born on March 24, 1964, in Paris, France, Chantal Mauduit moved to the French Alps at age five. She started climbing at 15 and quickly progressed from technical routes in the Alps to major expeditions in the Andes and Himalayas. Her focus shifted to the world’s tallest peaks, where she built a reputation as a fast, determined, and self-reliant alpinist.

Climbing Career

By the early 1990s, Mauduit had become one of the leading female Himalayan climbers. Her climbing record includes several high-profile summits, though not all were free from controversy.

She summited K2 (28,251 ft/8,611 m) in 1992, becoming only the fourth woman to do so. The ascent was successful, but the descent nearly killed her. Mauduit became snow-blind and unable to descend on her own. She was rescued by legendary mountaineers Ed Viesturs and Scott Fischer. Both abandoned their own summit attempts to bring her down to safety. The event earned her notoriety but also drew criticism for never publicly acknowledging the rescue.

In 1993, she summited Shishapangma (26,335 ft/8,027 m) and Cho Oyu (26,864 ft/8,188 m), both without supplemental oxygen. These ascents are generally accepted as true, although there is little third-party documentation or photographic evidence.

Between 1989 and 1995, Mauduit attempted Mount Everest (29,032 ft/8,848 m) multiple times without bottled oxygen. On her last attempt in 1995, she failed to summit and collapsed high on the mountain, likely from exhaustion or altitude sickness. Other climbers carried her down. This event became another point of concern within the mountaineering community, reinforcing perceptions that she sometimes relied heavily on others in high-risk situations.

Her most controversial claim came in 1996. After climbing Pumori (23,494 ft/7,161 m), she announced a solo summit of Lhotse (27,940 ft/8,516 m) without bottled oxygen or climbing partners. If true, it would have made her the first woman to solo Lhotse without support. However, there were no summit photos, no independent witnesses, and no GPS or altimeter confirmation. Many in the climbing community, including Ed Viesturs, who saw her on the mountain at the time, were skeptical. This climb occurred during the infamous 1996 Everest disaster.

Later that year, she successfully climbed Manaslu (26,781 ft/ 8,163 m), also without oxygen. This ascent is largely accepted but lacks detailed third-party verification.

Also in 1996, Mauduit attempted Annapurna I (26,545 ft/8,091 m), but did not summit due to weather.

In 1997, she added Gasherbrum II (26,362 ft/8,035 m) to her resume. This climb is considered credible and was one of her last major ascents.

1998 Dhaulagiri Expedition

In May 1998, Mauduit set out to climb Dhaulagiri (26,795 ft/8,167 m), the seventh-highest mountain in the world. Located in western Nepal, the peak is known for its steep terrain, frequent avalanches, and extreme isolation. It is considered one of the more dangerous 8,000-meter peaks, with a lower success rate and higher fatality rate than most. The combination of altitude, unpredictable weather, and avalanche-prone slopes made it a formidable objective, even for a climber of Mauduit’s caliber.

She was part of a Spanish-led expedition, climbing with Sherpa Ang Tshering, her regular partner. They established Camp II at around 21,120 ft (6,400 m) and prepared for a summit push. But on May 11, 1998, Mauduit and Tshering were found dead in a snow covered tent. She was 34 years old.

Their bodies were recovered and flown to Kathmandu. An autopsy in France determined that Mauduit died of a broken neck, likely caused by a small avalanche while she slept. Her body was cremated. It was determined that Tshering died from suffocation, consistent with being caught in an avalanche.

Frederique Delrieu, a climbing companion who retrieved her body, stated that their actions at Camp II were reasonable, not reckless. Their deaths were viewed as an accident in an unpredictable environment.

The Black Widow

Throughout her career, Mauduit faced criticism for allegedly relying on the labor and logistics of others without ever contributing. She was disparaged for having others carry loads, fix ropes, or assist her during difficult sections. Some even accused Mauduit of leveraging her appearance and having intimate relationships with men to gain support on expeditions. One past lover went as far as calling her a “black widow”—a reference to the spider that kills and eats the male after mating—suggesting she used men to help her climb, only to discard or ignore them afterward.

However, there is little evidence that she traded sexual favors for help or deliberately manipulated people for personal gain. Supporters of Mauduit, including close climbing partners and friends, have rejected these accusations, calling them baseless and misogynistic. In tributes written after her death, many noted how she was judged more harshly than her male peers for behavior that was common in expedition settings, such as relying on fixed lines or established camps.

Her Legacy

Despite the debate, Mauduit’s resume placed her among the most prolific female high-altitude climbers of the 1990s. She took on peaks that few women attempted and did so with minimal support. While some in the climbing world questioned her methods, few doubted her courage.

Chantal Mauduit followed her passion to the very end. She accepted the risks and climbed not for fame, but because she loved the mountains.

Mauduit funded a school in Nepal and cared deeply for the Sherpa community. Her generosity and spirit left a lasting mark outside of mountaineering. After her death, family and friends founded the Association Chantal Mauduit Namasté to support education for children in Nepal. The Chantal Mauduit School in Kathmandu now serves over 200 students, with a focus on helping girls and disadvantaged youth.

May she rest in peace.